The Other Paper, published December 22, 2010
"Wharf Sets a New Standard for Crab Cakes"
A few Central Ohio restaurants were revered as historically epic. There was Kahiki, with its uncommonly immersive tiki experience, and Jai Lai, which was infamous for its mammoth size.And then there was Fisherman’s Wharf. Back in the ’80s, the original version on Morse Road did an over-the-top impersonation of an old ship. After it closed, the restaurant had a brief reprise in Bexley, then blipped off the radar.
Now the Wharf has once again been taken out of dry dock, having been reincarnated up at Polaris. Disappointingly, the new Fisherman’s Wharf does not look the least bit like a boat. But its un-boaty-ness is the only disappointment in the house. The current version is more like a classical, old-school restaurant. The tables have black linens and stemmed glasses, and a host will even do the napkin-in-your-lap service at the initial seating. Beyond the napkin trick, the bustling servers wear straight black and sensible shoes as they bustle around carrying oversized food trays and stands. It’s like something from a dream. Even the freebies, the dewy bread and garlic-tinged pesto, are divine.
The menu goes on forever, with pages and pages of appetizers, salads, seafood and even a few mammalian options (land species, not dolphins).
Oysters Rockefeller ($14) is the ideal starting point, considering the place’s overall theme. It’s seafood, and it’s perfectly executed, with bites of oysters that merge with their rich filling.
Salad-wise, while some might wax rhapsodic over a mozzarella/tomato combo, the Wharf has the good sense to team tomatoes and feta ($5). It retains all the attributes of sweet tomatoes and cheese, along with the briny flavor boost that only feta can deliver.
Those in search of a more lettuce-oriented option can order the crisply fresh Greek salad ($5).
Among the soups, the seafood bisque ($7) is pumpkin-colored and rich with butter, cream and chunks of shrimp. There’s nothing subtle about this soup, which is aggressively filling and flavorful.
On to the entrées:
Crab cakes are eternally popular at any big restaurant, and most places serve up acceptable versions that are tasty but thick with filler. But there’s no crap in the crab cakes ($27) at Fisherman’s Wharf. Instead, they’re humongous lumps of crabmeat just barely holding on to each other. Served with a swirl of whipped potatoes and a pretty mixture of green beans, asparagus and baby carrots, they raise the bar on what’s acceptable when it comes to the dish.
Stuffed flounder ($22) is every bit as classic as the oysters Rockefeller and crab cakes. It’s every bit as wonderful, too. Inside the shelter of the mild flounder flesh lies a generous heap of savory seafood filling. Yes.
For the seafood-phobe, there is chicken, (As the waitress charmingly pointed out: “It’s OK, chickens swim, too—like a duck”.) And even the chicken pasta ($16) is good at this seafood place. Long flat strands of pasta swim (like a duck) in a creamy sauce with pounded chicken, broiled teeny tomatoes, olives and half-melted feta.
Here’s hoping the Wharf stays afloat at Polaris for many years.
This Week News, published January 5, 2011
"Another Fisherman's Wharf, More Great Seafood"
Chalk up another one for the Chalkias family -- a new Fisherman's Wharf has opened. Sailing out dishes of high-grade seafood from its Polaris-area kitchen, this Wharf is off to a brisk start. For background, the original Fisherman's Wharf premiered on Morse Road in the mid-'70s during a drastically more provincial dining era than we're currently enjoying. Partially drawing on the Chalkias family's Greek heritage, it was like the restaurant that launched a thousand others. Some are still chugging along, others have long run aground, but count among that distinguished number Niki's Deli, a Fisherman's Wharf in Bexley, Fisherman's Wharf Pier II, Feta in Pickerington and the Big Fat Greek Kuzina. I'll not bother mentioning every eatery with ties to the Chalkias brood, but rest assured that if you're a fan of Greek food in Columbus, you've probably patronized a Chalkias-related restaurant.So of course Grecian accents make their way into the new Fisherman's Wharf, but as its name suggests, this place is mostly about the fish. Its nautical theme is clearly stated outside, where beneath porthole windows peeking through huge and heavy black lacquered doors, a split-in-two captain's wheel serves as handles. Inside, off-white walls with coppery swaths set off black and blue accents. So tablecloths, menus, napkins, servers outfits and even leftovers boxes are night shaded. Fanciful blue pops up in pretty, aquarium-riffing stained glass windows. There's also a large and attractive rectangular bar in the big and bustling restaurant.
Overall, it's a handsome, but not chichi, establishment. Accordingly, it generally draws in regular folks splurging on excellent, and pricey, seafood. As for cooking and plating styles, they've ranged from straightforward to considerably fancier. From the latter group, the Sesame Ahi Tuna ($12) was a fine starter. Looking like a dozen dominoes toppled in a straight row, the raw, served room temperature "tiles" of delicious sashimi-grade fish sported crunchy seared rims encrusted with white and black sesame seeds. Artful squiggles of wasabi mayo and a fragrant oil provided modernist touches - but skip the overpowering soy sauce dip. Homier but soulful was the Seafood Chowder ($4.50/cup). Actually more like a soothing potato soup laced with clams, its starchy ballast was leavened with a nicely measured tang. Saladwise, my favorite was the eye-catching, tongue-delighting and near meal-in-itself Captain's Artichoke Salad ($6). Like a gussied up Greek salad, its manifold elements (cucumber, roasted red peppers, creamy feta and much more) made for a dynamic combination.
Navigating the mammoth menu for entrees can take a while. You'll scan past delicacies like Day Boat Scallops, plump Danish scampi, killer Kodiak Alaskan Red King Crab Legs, and luscious Maine lobster tails. Want 'em all? Then opt for the Baked Variety platter ($50, but could feed two) which rounds them up simply, perfectly cooked, dusted with seasoned breadcrumbs and presented with lakes of garlicky melted butter. For something "cheffier," pick the terrific Macadamia Nut Crusted Halibut ($26). Sauced with a sweetish orange buerre blanc, it was a huge and truly beautiful piece of succulent snow-white fish. Soft and supple, yet endowed with bells and whistles galore (berries, bananas, nutella, whipped cream, chocolate sauce), Gina's Crepes ($12, easily serves two) were the obvious dessert star.
